We have had 2 blissful nights at Riomaggiore in a room with elevated ocean and sunset views (which has been shared with Sud and Neeq) which we came by purely by luck as there was never anything mentioned about the amazing room when we booked it; we all thought it was going to be dorm/hostel accommodation! Great value at 60€ a night per couple! Believe me, freshly prepared antipasto plates with Cinque Terre wine and Lemonchello on our terrace each afternoon will be hard to top!
More impressive however, if it is possible, was the walk along the cliff lined coast from Riomaggiore to Manterosso. WOW! And as luck would have it, one of the sections that were closed the day prior had been re-opened (section 3 - Corniglia to Vernazza). Sadly one section of the coastal walk remained closed (section 2 - Manarola to Corniglia) due to the heavy rains over winter meaning that Manda, Sud and Neeq took the wee train (which runs between the 5 villages) between Manarola and Corniglia; I took the high route which was open and I've got to say it was on par with the best day walks I've done (probably a 2nd best to NZ with Timbo). Total walk distance Brad 14.5km; Manda 11km plus side trails etc. Manda impressively conquered the stairs of which there were 1000s without hardly working up a sweat and in better than suggested time; she even led the pack for a while! So good job Boppie!
The little villages mentioned above were incredibly rustic and charming in only a way that Italians could manage I'm sure. Words can't describe them adequately but basically they were terraces squeezed in down valleys all the way to their marina or atop hills with paths to their marina. With each terrace painted a different colour with pretty wooden window shutter painted a different colour the result is a patchwork like effect of pastel colour. The surrounding vineyards finish the picture nicely. Each village may only have as few as 1000 residents to perhaps 2000 residents at Riomaggiore, the largest of the 5.
The train links all 5 villages and can get you from one end of the trail to the other in 10 odd minutes. Yes, it goes directly there and when I say directly I mean directly through the rock. Not scenic as it's all in the tunnel but fast! We took the ferry home for the view of the coast which was well worth the 8€ each. For the record the walk pass was 5€ and the train pass 5€ also.
Snorkeling - loads of little fish around the rocks at the bottom of the cliffs and marinas. Again no sand but pebbly beaches; smaller stones closer to 5-10 cent size. I found some copper wire and then, rather than sunbaking absent xxx I bent it to read Brandy. Quite creative I thought. I then gave it to Manda and she left it on the beach! It was however retrieved and stowed away for later use!
Picking lemons - thorn through thong, bleeding foot! lemons and citrus everywhere. Juice great with Sprite and or Lemonchello!
Vineyards and terraced farmers gardens - great use of space considering the gradient. It was STEEP. I'm actually surprised anyone can pick the grapes, at least safely!!! Gardens were terrific to and contained all the usual suspects; tomato, potato, corn, carrot, spinach, strawberry, peaches, apricots, mulberry, artichokes, lemon, orange, lime, passionfruit, olives and all the herbs imaginable (basil most popular and was packed into most plots very densely) to name a quick few. Terraces were fenced with barbed wire or quite high or with both security options, with padlocked gates (which I'm sure they didn't thrown the keys away for) to keeps people like me out. Did manage to get a big strawberry so didn't missout too badly! Garden plot usually about 1.5-2m wide by up to 10m long so only small, but what they lack in size they make up for in number as there are 100s of plots terraced down the soiled cliffs! I certainly picked up some tips for space conscious vege gardening!
Lovers walk between Riomaggiore and Manarola is quite good fun and is dedicated to peoples love for one another (partners). This is demonstrated by placing a padlock along the 1km section of trail and tossing the key into the ocean below, never to be opened; quite a nice gesture in such a pretty area. Manda and I had our little padlock we bought in Nice and had superglued a 5 cent coin to so I popped Manda up on the shoulders and she attached it on the 2 love hearts at the start of the walk. There could have been 200 locks on it but our little gold lock with silver coin on it stood out nicely. Kinda like getting married again, ones love for another out there for all to see: a symbolic gesture. Let's just hope it stays there! I'm sure someone could make loads of money selling padlocks here as many tourists weren't aware it was done/important to this section.
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